Auction 110 Part 2 Jewelry watches, Medals and coins, silver and Judaica
By Alma
May 13, 2019
Ibn Gabirol St 71, Tel Aviv-Yafo, floow -2, row 15 (in the paring) Israel

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LOT 402:

A French Victorian En Tremblant 18k Gold and Diamond encrusted floral necklace 1880-1890.

Sold for: $6,000
Start price:
$ 5,000
Estimated price :
$8,000 - $10,000
Buyer's Premium: 20% More details
VAT: 17% On commission only
13/05/2019 at Alma

A French Victorian En Tremblant 18k Gold and Diamond encrusted floral necklace 1880-1890.

A finely crafted silver topped 18k gold demi-parure, articulately set with over 150 rose cut and old cut diamonds. The upper flower bud holds in its center an old cut diamond weighing approx : .75 ct while the lower bud has an approx .25 ct diamond. The rest of the diamonds are between .01-.10 ct. The buds can be detached from the main necklace and reassembled  on either a two pronged hair pin or a finely crafted S shaped brooch pin. 


The parure sits in its original upholstered leather box. Originally there seems to have been two other items to attach the floral buds to. They have been lost with time.


Overall condition is good. There are 4 small diamonds missing from the necklace.There is a small crack to one of the link joining the segments of the upper part of the necklace. It can easily be soldered and in its present state sits stable. The clasp of the parure is a modern adaption and has been executed nicely. One of the buds of the parure sits a little loose due to wear of time. It too can probably easily amended.


Each individual piece is hallmarked with the proper french marks.


total weight: 78.3 grams

Total diamond weight: 6-7 ct  d-h color vs-si clarity

Inner diameter of necklace: 15 cm 


notes:


Cleverly, the demi-parure was not static but modular and could be remade into more fashionable jewelry in order to stay au courant in the court and fashion-forward for the times. Members of court and higher social ranks vied for the best jewelers to create the most imaginative and elaborate collections that would astound one another and increase their status. Some necklaces could be worn intact or temporarily disassembled into bracelets, pendants, hair ornaments or brooches with smart interchangeable components and locking systems.


The artisans under Louis XIV were credited with some of the first parure inventions in the 18th century. Diamonds, often paired with silver, were popular at that time.